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Is it worth investing in a vitamin C serum that goes bad before you have the chance to finish the bottle? I get this question a lot. So many of you have bought Skinceuticals CE Ferulic or one of its many dupes only to end up with an unusable serum after a few short weeks. Surely, there must be a better alternative out there?
Here’s the deal: it’s not that those serums are bad. It’s vitamin C that’s as finicky AF. It oxidises (i.e. loses a bit of its effectiveness) every time it’s exposed to light, heat and air and doesn’t last that long in water either.
This rules out anything that comes in jars. Tubes and bottles fare better but then Vitamin C’s in a sea of water. If you want to take that out, you need to replace it with silicones (The Ordinary Vitamin C 30% In Silicones and Indeed Labs Vitamin c24 work like this), but those are a no-go zone for a lot of people too.
Isn’t there a better way? Like, what if you could add a bit of vitamin C to your serums daily so it’d never get in contact with its enemies? Let me introduce you to Philosophy Turbo Booster C Powder, a vitamin C powder that allows you to do just that. But is it really a better way to get your daily dose of Vitamin C or does this approach comes with a catch or two, too? I’ve put it to the test to find out:
Key Ingredients In Philosophy Turbo Booster C Powder: What Makes It Work?
L-ASCORBIC ACID TO FIGHT PREMATURE AGING
Philosophy Turbo Booster C Powder is 99.8% Ascorbic Acid powder (if you’re curious, the rest is a mix of amino acids, minerals and anti-inflammatory ingredients). Ascorbic Acid is the pure form of vitamin C. It’s the most effective but also the most irritating and unstable (it goes bad way sooner than other vitamin C derivatives). Here’s what it does for your skin:
That’s when it’s active. As soon as it turns brown (it’s the colour of death for vitamin C), all these benefits are gone. That’s why Philosophy only gives you the powder. Away from light, air, heat and water, it lasts A LOT longer.
Related: My Vitamin C Serum Has Turned Brown! Can I Still Use It?
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
The Rest Of The Formula & Ingredients
NOTE: The colours indicate the effectiveness of an ingredient. It is ILLEGAL to put toxic and harmful ingredients in skincare products.
- Green: It’s effective, proven to work, and helps the product do the best possible job for your skin.
- Yellow: There’s not much proof it works (at least, yet).
- Red: What is this doing here?!
- Panthenol: A humectant with soothing properties. It draws water from the air into your skin to keep it hydrated and reduces inflammation.
- Zinc PCA: It hydrates skin and reduces sebum production to prevent acne.
- Copper PCA: A humectant that attract moisture from the air into your skin, keeping it hydrated for longer.
- Camellia Oleifera Leaf Juice: Derived from green tea, it’s loaded with antioxidants that have both wrinkle-fighting and soothing properties. They neutralise free radicals before they wreak their damage on your skin and reduce UV-induced inflammation.
- Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate: Derived from licorice, this extract has soothing properties that reduce irritations. In higher doses, it can also lighten dark spots.
- Arginine: An amino acid naturally present in your body that has both hydrating and antioxidant properties.
- Cysteine: An antioxidant that helps prevent and fight wrinkles.
- Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice: Hydrating and soothing, it makes skin softer and plumper and reduces irritations.
Texture
Philosophy Turbo Booster C Powder is a powder. Nothing more needs to be said about it.
Fragrance
It’s fragrance-free. Again, it’s just a powder, so not room for much fragrance.
How To Use It
You mix it with your fave water-based serum or moisturiser. I recommend an antioxidant serum, especially one with both ferulic acid and vitamin E. They’re known as network antioxidants because they make each other more effective.
But don’t mix it all at once. Nope, you must mix a new batch daily. Otherwise, you’re just defeating the purpose of using vitamin C in powder form. You pour a few drops of your fave serum/cream in the palm of your hand, add 1/2-1 scoop of the power and apply it to your face.
I’ll be honest. For me, it’s too much work. I like products that are ready to use. If I have to mix them daily, I won’t do it. But maybe you’re the DIY type and prefer to make your vitamin C serum every morning. It seems easy enough. What could go wrong?
Related: What Are The Best Antioxidant Serums?
Packaging
The powder is stored in a small, dark bottle. It comes with a small spatula that makes it easier to control the dose.
Problem #1: Higher Potential For Irritation
L-Ascorbic Acid isn’t just finicky AF. It’s also irritating as hell. That’s why derms tell you to start with a small concentration and work your way up. Or use a derivative (they’re less effective, but gentler). Now, when you mix the powder, you may accidentally mix too much at a time. And that’ll sting your skin real bad.
But, how do you know the exact amount of Vitamin C your skin can tolerate? If your skin’s pretty resistant or you’ve already worked your way up, there’s no need to panic. This powder is probably safe for you, even if you mix a bit too much (just don’t do it daily!). Anyone else, start with a low dose and work your way there. And if you have sensitive skin, you may not be able to use it all. L-Ascorbic Acid and sensitive skin don’t always get along, sorry!
FYI: I’m not giving you the exact amount of vitamin C powder to mix here because it’s pointless. It depends on how resistant/sensitive your skin type is, how much serum/cream you’re using with it, your measuring device etc. Just experiment to find out what works for YOU.
Related: Can You Use A Vitamin C Serum If You Have Sensitive Skin?
Problem #2: Wrong pH
Vitamin C works only at an acidic pH. That means a pH lower than 3.5. Go too high and it won’t work. Go too low (lower than 2.8) and it’ll irritate your skin. Now, when you mix L-Ascorbic Acid with something, anything, you’re changing the pH. Mixing the powder with water only, for example, will drop the pH to 2.5!
So when you’re mixing it with your fave serum/cream, how do you know the pH is right for vitamin C to work its magic? At the very least, get a bunch of pH strips to make sure your concoction has a pH between 2.8-3.4. Otherwise, you may go through all this trouble for nothing!
Related: Mix And Match: The Skincare Ingredients You Shouldn’t Use Together
Performance & Personal Opinion
Philosophy Turbo Booster C Powder works – there’s no doubt about that. It does everything a good Vitamin C serum should: it makes skin brighter, helps fade away the dark spots pimples leave behind and, in the long run, slows down premature aging, too. Plus, it mixes well with a variety of serums and moisturisers. I’ve never experienced any grittiness or piling with it.
I just don’t like the idea of DIY products. I’ve read reviews of people who had a bad case of irritation after using this – simply because they used too much powder! If you want to use it, definitely err on the side of caution. If you use too little, you can always add more next time.
Related: The Complete Guide To Vitamin C In Skincare: What It Is, What It Does, And How To Use It
How Does Philosophy Turbo Booster C Powder Compare To Other Vitamin C Products From Philosophy?
Vitamin C has found its way, in one form or another, in many of Philosophy’s products. Should you opt for one of them instead? Let’s investigate them and find out:
- Philosophy Anti-Wrinkle Miracle Worker+ Line-Correcting Moisturizer ($74.00): This moisturiser has 3 forms of Vitamin C, but none of them is present in a high enough dose to brighten the complexion. It’s just a lightweight moisturiser for combination skin that makes skin softer and smoother. Available at Philosophy, Sephora, and Ulta.
- Philosophy Anti-Wrinkle Miracle Worker+ Line-Correcting Overnight Cream ($79.00): Similar to the day cream, it has 3 forms of Vitamin C, but none is potent enough to brightens skin. It’s a richer cream and has its fair share of soothing ingredients. Available at Philosophy, Sephora, and Ulta.
- Philosophy Dose Of Wisdom™ Bouncy Skin Reactivating Serum ($68.00): This serum promises to restore vitality, but that means nothing. It has Vitamin C in the derivative form of 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, but unlikely in high enough dose that actually works. Leave this one on the shelf.
- Philosophy Purity Made Simple Ultra-Light Moisturizer ($34.00): A lightweight moisturiser that packs a hydrating punch for softer skin without breakouts. The derivative of Vitamin C it uses is enough to fight free radiclas, but won’t brighten skin. Available at Look Fantastic, Philosophy, and Ulta.
- Philosophy The Microdelivery Resurfacing Solution ($45.00): A gentle exfoliant enriched with a Vitamin C derivate to brighten and smoothen the complexion. I recommend it to first time exfoliating acid users only. Available at Look Fantastic, Philosophy and Ulta.
- Philosophy Turbo Booster B3 Powder ($40.00): Same ideas as this Vitamin C powder, but it’s a niacinamide powder. Niacinamide brightens, hydrates, soothes, fights wrinkles and treats acne. But there’s no reason to use it in powder form. But at least it has L-Ascorbic Acid, the most powerful form of Vitamin C. Available at Philosophy.
- Philosophy When Hope Is Not Enough Facial Firming Serum ($49.00): There’s nothing in here that can firm skin. The form of Vitamin C is a little-studied derivative, so don’t expect much from it. Leave this on the shelf.
What I Like About Philosophy Turbo Booster C Powder
- Makes skin softer and brighter
- Doesn’t go bad quickly
- Fragrance-free
- Bottle comes with a spatula
What I Like About Philosophy Turbo Booster C Powder
- Making an effective DYI Vitamin C serum is tricky. You risk creating a formula that’s either too irritating or not effective enough.
- Not suitable for sensitive skin.
Who Should Use This?
DIY types who are tired of Vitamin C serums that go bad after a few weeks. If you have sensitive skin or don’t like mixing your skincare products, this isn’t for you.
Does Philosophy Turbo Booster C Powder Live Up To Its Claims?
| CLAIM | TRUE? |
|---|---|
| Give skin a daily boost of vitamin c with our 99.8% topical vitamin c powder for face and neck. | True. |
| Acts as an antioxidant to help protect skin against environmental attack and prevent premature aging. | True. |
Price & Availability
$42.00 at Philosophy and Ulta
The Verdict: Should You Buy It?
If you’re tired of your vitamin C serums going bad too soon, it’s tempting to switch to a powder form of vitamin C like Philosophy Turbo Booster C Powder. But this approach is tricky. You need to make a new batch daily and experiment with both dosage and pH to end up with a truly effective formula. Get it only if you’re willing to do all that.
Dupes & Alternatives
- The Ordinary 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder (£6.30): This powder contains L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and nothing else. It doesn’t benefit from the extra antioxidants Philosophy has, but has the same drawbacks. It’s a more affordable way to test Vitamin C powders, though. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Sephora, SpaceNK and The Ordinary.
Ascorbic Acid, Panthenol, Zinc PCA, Copper PCA, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Juice, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Arginine, Cysteine, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
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