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Vitamin C
Antioxidant vitamin C is, hands down, the gold standard for addressing dark spots and hyperpigmentation. New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Patricia Wexler, MD, previously told Allure that this particular vitamin contains a property that inhibits your skin’s melanin production, which is what causes skin discoloration. In addition to brightening and evening your skin tone, vitamin C can prevent dark spots from forming in the first place, with continued use.
According to Dr. Kim, ingredients with similar melanin-inhibiting properties include azelaic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, and tranexamic acid, adding that the latter is particularly beneficial for melasma.
Retinol
Retinol is commonly used for its fine line-reducing powers, but the beauty of this multi-faceted antioxidant is it’s also amazing for diminishing dark spots. This ingredient’s ability to increase cellular turnover is key to minimizing the look of hyperpigmentation. “From an acne standpoint, the increase in cell turnover helps unclog pores,” Sheila Farhang, MD, a Beverly Hills, California-based board-certified dermatologist, previously told Allure. “This also helps decrease the appearance of brown or red post-acne spots as well as help collagen synthesis for acne scarring.”
Retinol is a top-tier active ingredient, but it can irritate sensitive skin types. If you have sensitive skin, chat with your dermatologist first before trying any retinol-infused products, or try a gentler alternative like bakuchiol.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Due to their ability to enzymatically exfoliate the skin, Dr. Kim says alpha hydroxy acids, also known as AHAs, are the perfect addition to any dark spot-reducing skin-care routine. This group of chemical exfoliators is known for its ability to remove the outer layer of dead skin, making it smoother and more even in tone.
Some of the most popular AHAs include lactic and glycolic acids, but it’s worth noting that the former is gentler on sensitive skin than the latter. Of course, you can experiment with different concentrations based on your skin’s needs and type, but if you want an intensive AHA-fueled treatment, you may want to consult with your dermatologist about an in-office chemical peel.
What else can I do to prevent dark spots?
“Before you spend your money on antioxidant serums and retinoids to improve the tone and texture of your skin, the most important first step is diligent daily sun protection, which is key to reducing the appearance of brown spots,” says board-certified dermatologist Shari Marchbein, MD, also based in New York City. “Otherwise you are literally throwing your money away investing in other skin-care products,” she adds. Dr. Kim backs this up, adding that SPF combined with vitamin C in the morning minimizes UV damage, prevents excessive melanin production, and contributes to a brighter complexion overall.
How we test and review products
When Allure tests a product, our editors look at it from every angle in an effort to best serve you. We review ingredients, scrutinize brand claims, and, when necessary, examine peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing each and every product that’s included in each and every review, we rely on experts who shape their fields, including dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine, to help us vet the ingredients and formulas.
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